Kita-Kamakura, the Valley of Salvation

This walk follows a narrow valley between the hills on the northern edge of Kamakura. Temples of high rank stand side by side here. But rank is not what this volume sets out to explore.

In 1253, midway through the Kamakura period, the real power to govern lay with the Hojo family, whose leaders held the title of shikken, or regent. They stood at the top of the samurai class, and they were the family that withstood two Mongol invasions. One after another, the heads of the Hojo built temples in this valley: Tokiyori, and then his son Tokimune. These men were at the very height of power, yet what they left behind were not monuments boasting of victory.

Enemy soldiers who came to attack. A woman suffering because she could not get a divorce. A younger brother who died at 29. A father killed in battle. Criminals who perished at the execution grounds. Every temple in this valley was built to save someone.

Why were the victors so set on mourning the dead? Why was a temple built on an execution ground that people called hell? You'll have to find out on the spot. From the gate of Engaku-ji to the Jizo of Kencho-ji, a single road links some 750 years of people holding someone in their hearts. Once you take that first step, the quiet air of the valley should feel a little warmer.