Kyoto: Silver Pavilion, No Silver Found

The Golden Pavilion and the Silver Pavilion. From the names alone, they sound like brothers, one gold and one silver. But they were not built by brothers. They were built by a grandfather and his grandson.

The Golden Pavilion was built by Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, the third shogun of the Muromachi shogunate. The Silver Pavilion was built by his grandson, Ashikaga Yoshimasa. Between the two villas lie more than 80 years, and a war that left the city of Kyoto a burned-out ruin.

And while the Golden Pavilion has real gold, no silver has been found at the Silver Pavilion. Why is that? There are three clues, one in each of three places. The Golden Pavilion in Kitayama, the northern hills. Shokoku-ji, to its east. And the Silver Pavilion in Higashiyama, the eastern hills. At the temple in between, there once stood a pagoda more than 100 meters tall, over 300 feet.

First, to Kitayama. Let's begin in front of that golden pavilion, reflected in its pond.